Current Location : Gilgit, North Pakistan (Google map)
Last entry date : 19 June 2008

28/May/08 to 30/May/08

Finally, after months of preparation (and of course an advance payment to the chinese agent to sort out my entry / exit permits, etc) for this entry, I rolled up to the Khazakstan / Korgas Chinese border on 28/May/08 morning. I was prepared ie I paid (too much to justify any border crossing) ; just keeping my fingers crossed that my agent has got my entry permission, the correct documents, etc with him and is waiting for me at the border. This is probably the most complicated and costly border crossing attempt of my trip.

Khazakstan had a small border post, but China had 2 big buildings with hundreds of personnels inside and outside (soldiers). “You’re the 1^st biker we see this year. Did you come here on a truck” asked the Chinese customs officer. I am on a bike, why would I come here on a truck ?? Thus began a series of difficult hurdles to get my bike pass the rules imposed on foreign vehicules, each rule dutifully followed to the letter by the 3 customs sections involved (visa, customs and health). The guards would not allow the agent to enter the customs compound, so I had to talk to their dept chief to request a special permission for his entry. By evening time, the bike was checked twice over and the Chinese Health section had refused the bike’s clearance. It demanded that the agent’s caution guarantee for the bike be increased 3 fold - a surprise even to the agent, but they quickly did so the next day.

We spent the next 3 days in the city of Yinning, 100km away, hopping from the Vehicule Inspection dept, to the Registration dept, to the Police dept to finally get my temporary Chinese driving license. These are huge administration office, chinese style, who knows little about flexibility. An International driver’s license is not valid here. In the end, all these motion are for a set of temporary bike papers & driver’s license valid for the remaining 9 days of my allowed bike import into China. The agent said I should consider myself lucky to get the bike permits. I ask myself if I am really lucky or am a fool to have paid to enter China ?? After all, if they make it so difficult to get in, who knows it could be just as difficult to get out with my own bike.

The consolation of my 3 days stay at Yinning was that the management of the hotel I was staying finds it an honour that a long distance traveler had chosen to stay at their hotel. At their inauguration day, I was made their guest of honour and even had to give a speech !

Now if only the Chinese customs would be more cool like this… and welcoming…

[Show as slideshow]

Current Location : Gilgit, North Pakistan
Last entry date : 11 June 2008
Young boys competing in a horserace in Qarqara, Eastern Kazakhstan
26/May/08 to 27/May/08
It would have been nice to linger around Karakol or Eastern Kyrgyzstan for a few more days (sleep in the guesthouse or just watch the crow show, for example). But somehow months before […]

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Current Location : Kashgar, Xinjiang Province, China
Last entry date : 07 June 2008
Difficult terrain on way to Valentin’s Altin Arachan base camp
25/May/08
When Valentin, the co-host of Yak Tours told me the dirt road to their mountain chalets at Altin-Arachan is accessible and its not a problem to take my bike there, I was delighted. I […]

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Current Location : Kashgar, Xinjiang Province, China
Last entry date : 07 june 2008
Kyrgyz man in traditional costume in Southern Issy-Kol lake
22/May/08 to 26/May/08
I heard some stories but I now know why seasoned travelers and backpackers are flocking to Kyrgyzstan. This country well tugged in by mountains, is beautiful, the people are friendly and it does […]

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Current Location : Kashgar, Xinjiang Province, China
Last entry date : 06 June 2008
Out in the steppe the animals appear so peaceful as they graze the land
21/May/08 to 22/May/08
The Lituanian adventure group (Martyn & Vee + Jonas 1&2) actually came out that morning with their video camera to film my departure from Gulnara guesthouse Tashkent, where […]

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Current Location : Kashgar, Xinjiang Province, China (Google map)
Last entry date : 05 June 2008
Women selling their produce at the Spice market, Samarkand
16/May/08 to 21/May/08
When the customs gate opened at the Turkmenistan exit border in Uzbekistan, I was already geared up and waiting - 1st in line to get out. The Turkish trucker Mr. Ridwan, […]

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Current Location : Bishkek, Krygyzstan (Google map)
Last entry date : 23 May 2008
Behind these beautiful layers of mountains lie Turkmenistan, some 30 kms away

After Marc and me called it quit at Quchan Iran on 11May08 evening there was another 80km of mountain road north to the frontier. Look at above photo. The road to the […]

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Current location : Ashgabat, Turkmenistan (Google map)
Last entry date : 13 May 2008
“We welcome you to Iran” says this man
It rained the Saturday morning I was supposed to leave Dogubayazit Turkey after a 2 days stay. It was a good excuse to stay another day - just relaxing and maybe shoot some photos of people […]

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Current Location : Mahmud Abad, on Caspian seaside (Google Map)
Last entry date : 08 May 2008
Hey, just got across into Iran via the northern Bazaran crossing
This is a brief update. Currently riding with another Dutchman travelling across northern Iran following the northern route along Caspian sea. The few photos I am able to upload tell […]

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Current location : Dogubayazit, Turkey (Google map)
Last entry date : 04 May 2008
Ishak Pasa Palace located on the hills overlooking Dogubayazit
I left Urgup on Wed 30/Apr/08 for Erzincan 450km away. A couple more days more at Cappadocia would have been been ideal to see most of the ancient sites in the area. Its easy to […]

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