Current Location : New Delhi, India (Google map)
Last entry date : 03 July 2008

[english]

Starring up at Mt. Rakaposhi, 7788mtrs above sea level. One can admire this high mountain from the KK highway

10/Jun/08 to 11/Jun/08

At last I’m on the Khunjerab Pass (4700m above sea level) and looking down Pakistan’s KK highway. Just great to be here. It’s a biker’s dream. Why ?? The KK ride is not an ordinary experience. Its difficult to come from the Chinese side, and if a biker does start on the KK from the Pakistan side, he/she still needs to climb 850km or at least 4 full days riding on a rough, uneven and dangerous road that has been carved out of rugged unstable mountains. The risk of landslides and rockfalls is present at all times – the locals just shrug at this – “God’s will” they say. Hats off to the Pakistan workers who built and maintain this majestic road.

Its almost casual atmosphere 80km down at Sost where the customs & visa formalities are done. There was no visible checkpoint. Luckily there were the tourists on the bus from China who knew what to do and I just followed them. For my bike entry it took 10 minutes to get the correct stamps. “Welcome to Pakistan, you can go now”. So easy. The customs even offered tea. Its from here I teamed up the next 2 days with Lili, a Swiss rider and traveller, to ride South along the KK into the Hunza Valley. After Marc in Iran, its interesting to once again share company and some laughs on the road.

I find the abrupt and even brutal landscape of the Hunza valley beautiful. The valley is peaceful and calm with lots of trails for trekking. The locals smile and wave to greet visitors. Even the Pakistanis of other regions say the Hunza people are a really nice lot. If there were media reports of trouble somewhere in Pakistan, it certainly isn’t here. Too bad I’m traveling a bit fast through here. It’s worth a re-visit with these kind and nice folks and to drink tea with them … maybe some day. [/english]

[french]

Vue du Mt Rakoposhi, 7788m au dessus du niveau de la mer. On peut admirer cette grande montagne depuis l’autoroute KK

10 juin 08 / 11 juin 08

Enfin je suis au col du Khunjerab (4700m d’altitude) et je regarde l’autoroute KK du Pakistan en contrebas. Tout simplement super d’être là. C’est un rêve de motard. Pourquoi ? Conduire sur la KK n’est pas une expérience ordinaire. C’est difficile de venir du côté chinois et si un motard commence la KK du côté Pakistan, il/elle a quand même besoin de grimper 850 km ou bien soit au moins 4 jours entiers de route accidentée et dangereuse qui a été creusée dans des montagnes rudes et instables. Le risque d’éboulements et de chute de pierres est constamment présent. Les locaux haussent seulement les épaules par rapport à ça -“La volonté de Dieu” disent-ils. Chapeau aux travailleurs Pakistanais qui ont construit et entretenu cette route majestueuse.

C’est presque une atmosphère décontractée 80 km plus bas à Sost où les formalités de visa et de douane sont effectuées. Il n’y avait pas de point de contrôles visibles. Heureusement il y avait le bus de touristes chinois qui savait quoi faire et je l’ai juste suivi. Pour l’entrée de ma moto, cela a pris 10 minutes pour avoir les tampons nécessaires. “Bienvenu au Pakistan, vous pouvez passer”. Tellement facile. Les douaniers m’ont même offert du thé. C’est d’ici que j’ai fait équipe pour les 2 prochains jours avec Lili, une motarde et voyageuse Suisse, pour rouler Sud, le long de la KK, dans la Vallée de Hunza. Après Marc en Iran, c’est intéressant, encore une fois, d’avoir de la compagnie et de partager quelques bons moments.

Je trouve les parois raides du paysage de la Vallée de Hunza très belles. La Vallée est belle et calme avec beaucoup de chemins de randonnées. Les locaux saluent et sourient pour accueillir les visiteurs. Même les Pakistanais des autres régions disent que les gens de la Vallée de Hunza sont très gentils. Si il y a eu des journalistes relatant des problèmes au Pakistan, ce n’était certainement pas ici. Dommage que je traverse cette région un peu vite. Ca vaut la peine de revenir voir ces gentils locaux et de boire un thé avec eux… Peut-être un jour.[/french]

27 Responses to « [english]Along the Karakoram Highway (part 1) – North Pakistan’s Hunza Valley[/english] [french]Le long de la route Karakoram (1ère partie) – Vallée du Nord de Hunza, Pakistan[/french] »

  1. breathtaking!!!!!love, Lydia

  2. Siew Hoon & Victoria3 July 2008 à 9:51 pm

    Hi- Sheen,
    Interesting update again, and, wow !! beautiful photos!!!. Thanks for sharing them with us.Take care.

  3. Hi Sheen,

    You captured amazing views from the KK highway …. sure like to hear more when you’re in Malaysia. Have a nice flight to Bangkok!

    Peter

  4. Hi Sheen,

    Me and my husband were looking at your photos and we were overwhelmed by the beauty of the mountains. I’m glad you’re taking it easy and I hope you won’t be in a rush when you are on the way back home and can spare at least a few minutes to have teh tarikh with us. Don’t forget our LSU friends have also offered you some nice food so try dropping by to see them. I’m talking about Mr. Thiam, Barry and Chua.
    I’m glad Yoke Lee is also following your blog.

    Regards,

    Teresa

  5. Hi Sheen,

    It’s reminded me about the Rockies back in the good-old-days. It’s a beauty, mate. Thanks for sharing.

    Like Lydia said, it must be pretty breath taking. I can only envy.

    Soon, you will be able to meet with your family, Teresa and the rest of the ex-Tigers in Malaysia.

    Take care, buddy.

    Cheers,
    Henry

  6. Love to be with you guys on the trail.
    Enjoy the ride and keep taking those wonderful photographs.

  7. annie jeanmichel erwan gwen4 July 2008 à 10:08 am

    somptueux magnifique …..
    j attend avec impatience les prochaines photos

  8. Kenny and Cecilia4 July 2008 à 11:51 am

    Hello Sheen,
    Really beautiful photographs of awesome places.Wish we could have been there with you to enjoy the view.You have travelled a long adventurous way,thankfully safely.Enjoy yourself in Bangkok,have some good rest and good food.Keep safe.God Bless.
    KCDP

  9. Beautiful, words cannot express the harsh beauty of the mountains and plains. Thank GOD for you Sheen for sharing with us the places and people. Take care and have a wonderful journey.

  10. Hehe … he !! Guess who was in the cargo hold on the same flight as me this early morning ?? I even hired myself to clear the bike from Thai cargo and it worked. Malaysia is … just down the road. Smell of “teh tarik” in the air.

    Now in Bankgkok’s chinatown. Hey Peter, I saw the Pathlab office this evening, on a street filled with hawker stalls. OK, the next batch of photos are coming.

    Sheen

  11. Siew Hoon & Victoria4 July 2008 à 8:41 pm

    Hi- Sheen,
    Thanks for letting us know that you are in Bangkok. Hope you have had a good flight. Enjoy your stay there. Rest and eat well. I am so excited for you – you are so near to Malaysia !
    I would like to say something, not only did you ‘alone,’ enjoy seeing the beautiful mountains in Pakistan, me too!!! (also, many others.) I keep on looking at the photos – what a beauty, and breathtaking!!! Also glad that you met friendly people there. Thanks for your blog, we can follow your exciting adventure. Take care. God Bless.

  12. Hi Sheen,

    That was fast ….. Bangkok! Right on schedule, I presumed. Don’t forget your friends along the way. See you then.

    Peter

  13. Hi Sheen

    Wow, you’re in Bangkok already. I’m trying to catch up with you on your amazing journey when I can. The beautiful photos of the harsh and wild terrain are really captivating and your narration brings me into your journey. Thanks for sharing your experience with everyone.

    I envy you, man.

    Take care
    Mike

  14. Jacinta, Patrick & Dylann5 July 2008 à 8:37 am

    Hello Sheen,

    Well YOUNG MAN, finally, real soon u’ll be reaching Malaysia. What an extraordinary trip & thank u so much 4 sharing it with us.

    Ooo… I can already smell the delicious smell of durian, emm….sedapnya…

    Take care Sheen. Have a wonderful & fun adventure.

  15. Hi sheen,

    Sawadikap….now Bangkok. So fast huh.

    Dont forget, Bukit Kayu Hitam got lots of durians these days.

    Amazing trip, amazing photos..i really admire your courage.
    Keep in touch..and keep all the photos cpoming for everybody to view.

    Take care…ride safetly

  16. Hello Sheen, what magnificent landscapes you cross ! Your photos return it to us so well !! And this place so restful and “to part” where you camp ! So you was alone but it was very beautiful !
    This first part of this journey touches its end. Thanks to have made us participate in this journey. My reading of Monday morning is going to miss me…
    Reunion in family is going to make the biggest goog. I know it which get impatient.. !
    Take advantage..
    I hope my english is not “bad” and you understand what I said…
    I have make a big effort… ouf !
    Biz
    Marie-Laure

  17. Hello Marie Laure,

    Thanks, you’re very brave. I understand what you’re saying. There’re more photos coming and more than a thousand kilometers to go for the 1st part of the journey.

    Ciao, Sheen

  18. Hi Sheen,

    I was telling my kids about your journey the other day and my daughters said: Wow, so cool, like Indiana Jones! My son asked me why you didn’t call your journey: By Bike Around the World.

    Cheers,

    Teresa

  19. Hi Sheen, So fast in Bangkok already. Beautiful write-ups, what where you cooking …. rice!!! Take care, now in Thailand hot and spicy…..can smell home cooked meals already…..See you soon. Take care…Mary Abraham.

  20. Hey Sheen,

    Are you in Malaysia already? If you are, you must be helping yourself to durians and nasi lemak, huh? We are excited to receive you when you arrive in KL – cant wait for your cerita-cerita. Meanwhile, you travel safe and look out for cows on the roads if you are not taking the highway.

  21. Hello at morning I’m found You in Krabi Rever Hotel 😀
    goodluck

  22. i was meet u in china boundary if u remember we have 6 motorbikes n 12 friends on bikes.ru enjoy pakistan places.u have a nice bike bmw 600cc i like ur bike i take a lot of intreasts in motorcycles .but their is no bikes tracks in pakistan i wana join racing team in malayasia their is any racing tracks so please inform me on this mail addresss i ll be waitiang ur reply best of luck.,

  23. Hello Yaman,

    Nice to hear from you. I enjoyed the Karakoram highway and think it has the best enduro bike rides of them all. The Malaysian race circuit is called the Sepang Circuit. For details about the Malaysian Grand Prix and riding circuit, pls check out website : http://malaysiangp.com.my/

    Sheen

  24. Hello,

    Glad to see you in Pakistan, I am sure that you would be enjoyed been here.

    Can you kindly let me know your email address.

    Regards
    Yasir

  25. Salut Sheen

    Je t attend a bali . (j achete une vespa de 1940 et …je termine la route avec toi?)

    Bonne route Cedric

  26. Salut Cedric,

    Comment ça va à bali ? Tu seras très courageux de vouloir terminer la route avec moi dans une vespa de 1940! Je devrais decendre de sulawesi direction bali vers la 3ème semaine de fevrier ?? je te contacte quand j’entre en indonésie.

    Ciao, Sheen

  27. cher bonnlee, bravo pour ton périple à travers l’asie.
    de mes 4 murs du cabinet je m’évade…
    Salutations

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